Some ideas are guaranteed to be a hit, whether they’re good or not. This fact has kept Michael Bay rich for decades. Zarella, a pizza-focused Italian spot in River North from the team behind Alla Vita, is one of these ideas. The menu: uncomplicated. The neighborhood: busy. The booths: big. But we’re delighted to report that this spot is, indeed, good. There are dueling pizza styles, tavern and “artisan” (thin but with a puffy edge), and both have tangy crusts with admirable structural integrity. Anyone who likes fried things and a flavorful red sauce will enjoy the few non-pizza options on the menu, like calamari and the ricotta gnocchi. Zarella’s winning formula of pizza + giant bar + upbeat pop music equals an easy, reasonably affordable, low-stakes place. Come here anytime you need to get a random assortment of people—from colleagues you barely know to estranged family—together.