The Jaguar Sun team has a knack for converting deeply unsexy spaces into burning embers of fun. They made us forget we were drinking martinis in the lower intestine of a millennial apartment complex. They turned a crumbling lot into a steakhouse where the whole city wanted to be seen sweating. And at ViceVersa, they’ve transformed a hotel lobby full of tourists in damp bathing suits into a Saturday night in Rome, with not much more than a sharp turn, some good soundproofing, and the best Negroni in the world.

It’s worth noting that ViceVersa is a collaboration between Jaguar Sun and an actual Roman bartender—no doubt a big reason why this narrow Italian aperitivo bar in Downtown so effortlessly embodies an Italian sense of cool. ViceVersa has clearly suffered over the details. Their helium-soft pizzas embody the best traits of Neapolitan pies (blistered yet fluffy crust) while side-stepping the worst (soupy middles). Servers spy empty glasses like an eagle scanning a lake for slow salmon. And the meal is always coursed perfectly—zippy crudos and bubbly spritzes to warm you up, then salty pizza and strong gin cocktails to send you home meltingly happy.

photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc

photo credit: RC Visuals

photo credit: RC Visuals

photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc

Precision aside, fun comes first at ViceVersa. Every seat gets you a view of wide smiles, and first dates going unexpectedly well. The entire room thrums with a combination of carefree energy and alcohol that’ll tee you up to be the version of yourself who usually only emerges after two cocktails in another country.

It’s hard to imagine that all of this goes down within skipping distance of Bubba Gump Shrimp Company. But that's just what this restaurant team does best. We can say for sure that the people on the other side of the wall—the ones who’re allegedly on vacation—aren’t having as good of a time.

Food Rundown

photo credit: RC Visuals

Negroni

This is the best Negroni in the world. That feels needlessly hyperbolic, and yet we’ll say it again, in italics, so you know we’re serious: this is the best Negroni in the world. It probably has something to do with the mi-to house blend they use as a base for the deceptively simple cocktail. It may have more to do with the fact that the bartenders are wearing very cool shirts.

photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc

Royal Red Shrimp

If you like spice, this is the crudo to get. The cherry pepper relish that covers the plump shrimp is patient. It waits until you’re done chewing to make your lips burn and tingle.

photo credit: ViceVersa

Scallop

If you don’t like spice, order this crudo instead (although together they make a wonderful pair). Nine or so buttery chunks of scallop sit in a psychedelic puddle of tomato water that provides just a hint of sweetness.

video credit: Virginia Otazo

Fennel Salad

On the salad scale of healthy to indulgent, this hits both extremes. It’s light, but also covered in a thundersnow of salty piave vecchio cheese. The dressing is heavy on pickling juice. It does a great job of preparing your stomach for all of the dough you’re about to shovel down.

photo credit: ViceVersa

Mortadella Pizza

There’s truly no wrong choice among the roughly seven pizza options, but the mortadella has proven to be our consistent favorite. The creamy ribbon of mortadella on each slice is perfectly folded into itself like a cat taking an afternoon nap, and balanced with thick puddles of pesto.

photo credit: ViceVersa

Wagyu Carpaccio

The carpaccio is as thin as a butterfly’s wing, and comes organized atop pieces of crispy toast with a caramelized onion emulsion and shavings of cured egg yolk. You can polish it off in one bite if you have decent jaw flexibility. But maybe don’t try that if you’re on a date.

video credit: Ryan Pfeffer

Monday Burger

First, some burger lore: the chef here used to have a restaurant called Proof that served a burger people freaked out over. That restaurant closed, and the burger people of Miami mourned. But now those same people show up here on Mondays, when it returns from the burger graveyard. It’s easy to see why people have stalked this thing for the last decade. The white cheddar, caramelized onions, and housemade potato bun melt into one incredible bite.

photo credit: Cleveland Jennings / @eatthecanvasllc

Gelato

This beautiful gelato is stretchy enough to use as a rope to rescue a swimmer in distress. You can have any flavor—there are usually three plus a seasonal one—turned into an affogato if you’re starting to yawn. You’ll never regret ordering pistachio.