A single bite of the short rib pastrami suya—which is brined in Jewish deli spices before marinating in Nigerian ones, then braised for hours—is all we needed to know that Tatiana has something special. We keep returning to the Lincoln Center restaurant (one of our Best New Restaurants of 2023) for another round, even if it means lining up at 4:30pm for a table. Each time, the suya tastes somehow better than we remembered.

Once you make it inside this difficult to reserve corner of the David Geffen Hall, it’s like being a VIP guest at the city’s hottest club. Tatiana glows blue and purple under puffy cloud chandeliers, glitters behind chain-link curtains, and blasts old-school hip hop and R&B. It's a rare fine dining spot with immaculate flow, where a server will refold your napkin the second you step away from your seat, and might also drop a little dance move while they're at it.

We like to think of Tatiana as the restaurant equivalent of “Empire State of Mind," with each exceptional dish making a statement about what it means to be from New York. Even if you miss a few references, the food still makes you want to throw a lighter in the air. Sorry, we're tossing around a lot of metaphors here—but so is Tatiana.

photo credit: David A. Lee

photo credit: Adrian Gaut

photo credit: David A. Lee

The menu is tight with no skips: it’s packed with spins on NYC classics (like that pastrami suya) and draws from the celebrity chef Kwame Onwuachi’s Bronx upbringing, as well as his Nigerian and Creole roots. The braised oxtails, which take days to prepare, involve a collagen-rich broth of boiled-down chicken feet. The version at your favorite local Jamaican counter spot will never quite hit the same way. Steaming curried goat patties flake apart into shards of crimped, blistered dough, perfect for chasing aioli—bright with Caribbean green seasoning—and sweet mango chutney around the plate. Other familiar but fresh takes include a mushroomy riff on Chinese takeout, and even a nod to the Cosmic brownies at corner bodegas.

There are a few dishes we wouldn't rush to order again (a truffle chopped cheese, a pricey seafood boil)—but this place is so good, those aren't even on the menu anymore. Get all the hits, and then as many of the B-sides as you can: berbere-spiced lamb with black-bean hummus, head-on shrimp served with brioche toast, rum-soaked cake with gooseberries. Then, pretend it’s your birthday to score the off-menu jello shots, which are more pretty than boozy. Your server knows what's up, but as they hand over a plate of four stained glass-like cubes dusted with gold, they'll wink right back at you.

Food Rundown

photo credit: David A. Lee

Hamachi Escovitch

This smaller plate of firm, raw hamachi starts the meal off on a high note, with the gingery buzz of escovitch melding seamlessly with orange carrot nage (a broth-like French sauce). It's sweet, sour, and a little spicy with marinated peppers—and a good way to balance out the meatier things you'll be eating next.

photo credit: Evan Sung

Honeynut Piri Piri Salad

We'd say that fish-avoiders could get this salad instead of the hamachi escovitch, but there are really no "instead ofs" at Tatiana. Seasonal grapes and other crisp, fruity bites sit in a bright, delicious pool of piri piri-honeynut squash velouté.

photo credit: David A. Lee

Curried Goat Patties

The goat curry inside these patties is delicious, but we could eat just the corners of these hot, blistered beauties for days. Also pictured: Tatiana's house hot pepper sauce, which you should hoard for the duration of your meal.

photo credit: David A. Lee

Short Rib Pastrami Suya

If for some reason you’re only getting one thing at Tatiana, it should be this. The Wagyu short rib practically falls apart when you look at it, and it comes with caraway coco bread and a heap of incredibly tender braised red cabbage.

photo credit: Evan Sung

Braised Oxtails

Between the pastrami suya and the braised oxtails, it's a tough competition. Get both if you can. Swimming in a dark brown, sticky goo, these tender cuts of meat are simultaneously comforting and startlingly delicious, with sweet notes from spices like bay and cinnamon.

photo credit: David A. Lee

Mom Duke’s Shrimp

These huge, head-on shrimp are swimming in creole butter and served with brioche, sliced as thick as Texas toast. They're great, though we'd prioritize the meatier dishes if you have to.

photo credit: David Lee

Take-Out Mushrooms

Tatiana's menu isn't quite as exciting for vegetarians, but this Chinese takout-inspired, mixed-mushroom dish is a solid option. The scallion pancakes are our favorite part, and you should dab each piece with plum sauce and a shred of pickled ginger before making a little bite.

Bodega Special

If you grew up eating packaged snacks from bodegas, this one might just make you cry in a good way. It’s a cosmic brownie with powdered donut ice cream, but it got older and started eating at fancy restaurants.