Cassava has been a nomadic shapeshifter since opening in the Outer Richmond in 2012, first making a name for itself with its Japanese breakfast before moving to North Beach and pivoting to a French bistro-ish menu. Now in Jackson Square, its third iteration is closer to the restaurant's roots, serving konbini-style sandwiches, onigirazu, Japanese rice plates, and a tight selection of salads, soups, and pastries. Except this time, Cassava’s dining room is paradise.

Boxed in by brick buildings in the middle of a city block, Cassava’s now taken over an airy courtyard marked only by a glowing “Cafe” sign. The food is mostly good—especially the onigirazu and Hayashi rice plates that aren’t easily found around SF—and the set-up is simple. A refrigerated case stocks pre-packed Kewpie-heavy egg salad sandwiches on milk bread and chopped salads. A tiny kiosk makes drinks, hot entrees, and onigirazu with Spam appear as if by magic. And it all happens while sunlight funnels in from above and palm fronds wave around like they're in a long-awaited threequel to George of the Jungle.

Especially for an area where lunch options generally consist of sad plastic bowls of salad or forced three-hour-long affairs, Cassava feels like a rare fortress of solitude in the city. The restaurant wins points for giving office-goers a place to free their eyes of screens. But even if you’re not confined to a nearby hotdesk, Cassava’s still worth a visit. If not for the homemade Spam, then just to sink into a cushioned bench in total silence—the rattle of your next Slack message can’t hurt you here.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Taylor Gomez

Po’-Tama

It’s easy to find onigiri in SF, but finding the open-faced style onigirazu is a lot harder. Thankfully, they’re at Cassava and thankfully they’re great. The housemade Spam is just salty enough and counters the slightly sweet tamago. This is a required part of any order.

photo credit: Taylor Gomez

Clam Chowder

A bit underseasoned and thin. Save room for the rice dishes instead.

photo credit: Taylor Gomez

Egg Salad Sandwich

It’s creamy and the eggs are jammy, but there’s not quite enough filling. Again, focus more on the rice dishes. Although the included side potato salad is a lovely bonus.

photo credit: Taylor Gomez

Hayashi Rice

Our favorite dish on the menu. We are commissioning a new Altoid flavor based on the tomato and cream sauce. This rice plate is vegan, but we suggest paying the extra $5 for a generous helping of crispy bacon slices.

Oatmeal Raisin Cookie

A solid way to end the meal. If you like your cookies soft and chewy, you’ll be happy with this.